Hyaluronic acid is one of the most well-known and at the same time, most poorly understood active ingredients on the market. It is ideal for all skin types and the size of its molecules dictates its primary function and the way it acts on the skin. Hyaluronic acid or glycosaminoglycan is most well-known for the fact that one gram of this substance may absorb up to as much as 6 l of water. Taking this into account, it’s no wonder that hyaluronic acid is intensively used in moisturising products.
As a humectant (moisturiser), hyaluronic acid is of great significance for all age groups yet plays an especially important role in more mature skin which loses its ability to retain moisture over the years. It then frequently looks dehydrated on the surface, unnaturally taut and dried out, marked by dehydration lines, flaking and loss of healthy tonus.
Depending on its molecular size, there are two types of hyaluronic acid: low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid has better capability of penetrating into the deeper layers of the dermis, therefore having a more concrete anti-age effect. The hyaluronidase enzyme dissolves naturally present hyaluronic acid in the skin, lowering its levels with time. Such a reduced general level of glycosaminoglycans, among which primarily hyaluronic acid, has been proven to have a negative effect on the skin’s elasticity and firmness, the appearance of wrinkles and capillary micro damage to the skin which need to be repaired (source: Grazia C., Grappone C. and Dini G. 1994 Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous intrisic aging International Journal of Dermatology. 33:119-124).
Although its name contains the word “acid” hyaluronic acid is in fact a very mild, relatively inert and pH-independent ingredient which may be used on very sensitive skin and even on the eye area, without fear of any type of negative reactions. The effect of the product on the skin greatly depends on the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid, as well as on other active ingredients combined with it in a product. Some active components have been proven to boost the effect of hyaluronic acid and vice versa, making a synergistic effect of active components the best guarantee for getting an optimum result from the product. For example, skin treated with glycolic and hyaluronic acid in a neutral medium in comparison with skin treated with just a neutral medium (without active components) exhibits a 54.7% higher level of epidermal hydration, which represents a statistically significant difference (source: Bestein E.F., Lee J., Brown D.B. et al 2001 Glycolic Acid Treatment Increases Type I Collagen mRNA and Hyaluronic Acid Content of Human Skin Dermatologic Surgery, 27(5): 429-433).
For that very reason, our exfoliating night essence Lumion combines both these active components. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid ideal for both day and night usage (in other words without photosensitising components) can be found in Skintegra’s product Hydra.